Independent Italian fashion brand Simon Cracker defied the luxury fashion establishment with a revamped collection previewed at Milan Fashion Week on Sunday that reflects what it sees as the days of quality and creativity past.
Created from reclaimed and out-of-print clothing, materials and accessories, coed looks include a tongue-in-cheek swipe at Hermès’ high-end Birkin bag, designers apply signature accessories to leather bags or screen-print images of the much-loved bag on sweaters. .
Co-creative directors Simone Botte and Filippo Biraghi were pleased that Walmart came up with what appeared to be a Birkin knockoff while working on this collection.
“People have lost interest in fashion,” Biraghi said. “They have been taking them for a walk for 20 years. With 50 wars in the world, climate change, we are all getting poorer. There is no longer a relationship between price and value. At a certain point, you can’t go on.”
Collection signs
The collection pokes fun at the typical Milanese signora, colloquially known as a sciura, sending her out with fun tweed separates, scarves and even a small dog. Each silhouette is one-of-a-kind, constructed from clothing the pair reclaims from dry cleaners and other sources, and the models transform into character with unusual bends and exaggerated catwalk steps.
The brand has expanded its collaboration with Doc Martens, adorned with trompe l’oeil ballerina shoes. Sometimes skirts, collars and decorative fringes were made of shiny tinsel wrapping material, and the ribbons were covered with shoes.
The show closed with a dress completely hidden by luxury labels from Biraghi’s own wardrobe, collected over the years. “We make a mockery of wealth,” he said.
The luxury sector is collapsing
Simon Cracker’s runway criticism hits the sector when it’s down – and analysts say it needs reform.
A new study by consulting firm McKinsey and The Business of Fashion says that after four years of exceptional growth between 2019 and 2023, top brands face a significant slowdown this year, allowing the sector to grow by 5% more per year. pandemic.
The McKinsey-Business of Fashion report says that most of this expansion – a full 80% – has been driven by price increases outstripping innovation.
Consulting firm Bain also forecast a 2% contraction for 2025, including the pandemic year 2020, the first since the Great Recession. Along with the global turmoil, he also noted a creative crisis.
The findings are not surprising to Botte and Biraghi.
“If the clothes aren’t interesting, if they don’t tell a story, if they don’t have creativity, who cares,” says Biraghi. “We all have too many clothes, too many. We don’t need more.”
Create a community
Italian singer Chiara Galiazzo was front row in a sky blue striped and plaid jacket with royal blue Bermuda shorts and matching painted boots. He said the authenticity of the brand attracted him.
“I feel like I’m part of a community,” she said after the show. “I think it’s an important thing and a lot of fun.”
-Colleen Barry, AP fashion writer